Synopsis
Pizza in New Haven by Colin M. Caplan is a comprehensive exploration of the 140-year history of Italian immigration and culinary tradition that transformed New Haven, Connecticut, into one of America’s most iconic pizza-making hubs. As a New Haven native, historian, and self-proclaimed “pizza guru,” Caplan weaves a rich narrative that goes beyond the city’s famous pizzerias to tell a broader story of cultural resilience, family bonds, and the evolution of a beloved comfort food. The book traces the origins of New Haven’s pizza culture to the late 19th century, when Italian immigrants, primarily from the Naples region, arrived in this industrial Yankee city. These immigrants brought with them family recipes and a passion for flatbreads that would evolve into the distinctive “apizza” (pronounced “ah-beetz”), a term rooted in the local dialect of New Haven’s Little Italy. Caplan emphasizes how the same coal that powered New Haven’s factories also fueled the ovens that baked the city’s signature charred, thin-crust pizzas, which became a staple for mill workers, farmers, politicians, Yale students, and local “townies” of all backgrounds. This shared culinary tradition, born from hardship and ingenuity, fostered a sense of community and identity that continues to define New Haven’s food landscape.
Caplan’s narrative delves into the historical context of New Haven’s pizza scene, debunking myths and clarifying the timeline of its development. While many locals claim pizza was invented in New Haven, Caplan corrects this notion, noting that pizza likely originated in Naples in the 1600s or 1700s, but was perfected in New Haven through the efforts of early 20th-century Italian bakers. He highlights figures like Frank Pepe, who opened his pizzeria on Wooster Street in 1925, though he notes that at least ten other pizzerias predated Pepe’s, with Francesco Scelzo’s “Pizzeria Napoletana” on Fountain Street in 1915 marking an earlier milestone. The repeal of Prohibition in 1933 spurred a boom in pizzerias, as they could serve alcohol and stay open late, becoming social hubs for the city’s diverse population. Caplan’s research, supported by archival photos and documents, brings to life the stories of enterprising bakers like Angelo Gentile and Tony Composano, who started with food carts and market stalls before establishing brick-and-mortar restaurants. These stories are interwoven with tales of Italian families navigating the challenges of immigration, factory work, and urban redevelopment, particularly the disruptive impact of Mayor Richard Lee’s projects in the mid-20th century, which reshaped neighborhoods like Wooster Square.
The book also celebrates the enduring legacy of New Haven’s “holy trinity” of pizzerias—Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, Sally’s Apizza, and Modern Apizza—which have become global destinations for pizza enthusiasts. Caplan, who co-produced the documentary Pizza, A Love Story, details the unique characteristics of New Haven apizza, such as its coal-fired, fire-licked crust and minimalist toppings, exemplified by classics like Pepe’s white clam pie or Sally’s plain tomato pie with grated cheese and garlic. He offers practical advice for enjoying apizza, such as avoiding overdone toppings to preserve crust integrity and never microwaving leftovers to maintain their crispness. Beyond the food itself, Caplan reflects on the cultural significance of these pizzerias, which have attracted visitors from around the world and inspired offshoots across the U.S., often started by former employees or family members of the original establishments. His personal connection to the subject shines through, as he recounts being “weaned on pizza” as a child and realizing New Haven’s culinary superiority after living in cities like New Orleans and Los Angeles, where pizza failed to match the Elm City’s standards.
More than a culinary history, Pizza in New Haven is a tribute to the Italian-American families who shaped the city’s identity through their shared passion for food. Caplan, a historian with a master’s in architecture from Tulane University, draws on years of research, interviews, and personal experience running Taste of New Haven culinary tours to paint a vivid picture of a community bound by tradition. The book includes evocative photographs of New Haven’s neighborhoods from the 1920s to the 1960s, capturing the vibrancy of Wooster Square and the pain of its partial destruction during urban renewal. Readers with ties to New Haven, particularly Italian-American families, find the book deeply personal, as it mentions familiar names and streets, evoking nostalgia for a lost era. While some may find the focus on historical details and family stories outweighs technical discussions of pizza-making, the book’s strength lies in its ability to connect food to the broader human experience of immigration, labor, and cultural pride. Caplan’s work stands as both a scholarly record and a love letter to New Haven, cementing its status as a pizza capital and a testament to the enduring power of family recipes.