Synopsis
Inventing the Pizzeria: A History of Pizza Making in Naples by Antonio Mattozzi, translated and edited by Zachary Nowak, is a meticulously researched historical study that traces the origins and evolution of pizza and pizzerias in Naples, Italy, from the late 18th to the early 19th centuries. Drawing on extensive archival research, Mattozzi, a former literature teacher from a family with over 160 years of pizza-making heritage, dispels myths and urban legends—such as the oft-repeated tale that the pizza Margherita was named after an Italian queen—and provides a grounded, scholarly exploration of pizza’s cultural and social significance. The book situates pizza within the broader context of Naples’ urban development, emphasizing the socio-economic challenges faced by the marginalized class of early pizza makers, known as pizzaioli, rather than focusing solely on the global success of their descendants. It offers a unique lens into the commercial, social, and food history of Italy while also serving as an urban history of Naples, told through one of its most iconic culinary exports.
The narrative begins by exploring pizza’s origins as a street food in 18th-century Naples, where it was sold by vendors to the city’s working-class residents. Mattozzi details how pizza evolved from a simple, portable food—often made with basic ingredients like dough, tomato, and sometimes mozzarella or oregano—into a staple of small eateries that emerged from bakers’ shops. These early pizzerias, often family-run, were shaped by the city’s economic and political landscape, including the Bourbon period and the unification of Italy. The book delves into the lives of pizzaioli, highlighting their struggles with poverty, restrictive licensing laws, and societal prejudice, as well as their resilience in establishing a trade that would eventually gain global fame. Mattozzi uses archival records, such as censuses, police documents, and licensing requests, to paint a vivid picture of the pizzaioli’s social context, their neighborhoods (like Mercato and San Ferdinando), and the gradual spread of pizzerias across Naples.
The book also examines the technical and cultural aspects of pizza making, from the evolution of ingredients and preparation methods to the physical spaces of pizzerias, including iconic establishments like Port’Alba and Brandi. Mattozzi discusses the economic realities of the trade, such as the costs of operating a pizzeria, the role of ovens, and the distribution networks that supplied ingredients like tomatoes and mozzarella. He addresses how external factors, such as urban reforms like the Risanamento and economic hardships, influenced the growth and regulation of pizzerias. The narrative touches on key figures in Naples’ pizza history, such as Raffaele Esposito, often credited (though perhaps apocryphally) with popularizing the Margherita, and families like the Vicos and Lombardis, whose legacies endure in historic pizzerias. While the book is rich in detail, some readers note its academic tone, which prioritizes historical data over sensory descriptions of pizza, occasionally making it less engaging for casual readers. The author’s frequent use of phrases like “let’s return to” to navigate the non-linear narrative can also feel repetitive.
Originally published in Italian, the English edition, released in 2015, includes a revised introduction and conclusion, a new preface, and additional images and sources, enhancing its accessibility. The book concludes by reflecting on pizza’s transformation from a local, working-class food to a global phenomenon, while emphasizing its deep roots in Neapolitan culture. Mattozzi’s work is praised for its rigorous scholarship and contributions to food, social, and urban history, as noted by scholars like Carole Counihan and David Gentilcore. Despite its dense, document-heavy approach, which may not evoke the sensory allure of pizza, Inventing the Pizzeria stands as an authoritative account of how a humble dish became a cultural icon, offering readers a nuanced understanding of Naples’ history through the lens of its most famous culinary creation.