Synopsis
Detroit Style Pizza: A Doughtown History by Karen Dybis is a meticulously researched and engaging exploration of the origins, evolution, and global rise of Detroit-style pizza, a rectangular, deep-dish pie known for its airy crust, crispy caramelized cheese edges, and signature red sauce stripes on top. The book traces the pizza’s beginnings to 1946 at Buddy’s Rendezvous, a Detroit bar owned by San Marino immigrant Gus Guerra, who, alongside his wife’s Sicilian influences, crafted a unique hybrid of Northern and Southern Italian pizza traditions. Baked in rectangular steel pans—possibly repurposed from automotive drip trays or family bread pans—this innovative pizza combined a high-hydration, double-proofed dough with Wisconsin brick cheese and a tomato-based sauce, creating a chewy yet crisp texture that became a local sensation. Dybis delves into the cultural and historical context of post-war Detroit, where Italian immigrants and auto workers embraced this hearty dish, setting the stage for its transformation from a neighborhood staple to a culinary phenomenon that rivals New York, Chicago, and New Haven pizza styles.
The narrative follows the pizza’s spread through the stories of key figures and rivalries that shaped its legacy. After Guerra left Buddy’s in 1953 to open Cloverleaf in Eastpointe, taking his recipe with him, other pizzerias like Loui’s in Hazel Park and Shield’s emerged, each adding their own spin to the style. Dybis highlights the competitive dynamics among these early “OG” pizzerias, fueled by a 1970s Detroit News article that crowned Buddy’s as a top pizza spot, sparking tension with Cloverleaf’s owners and cementing a legacy of familial and culinary rivalries. The book also explores myths, such as the debated origins of the iconic pans, with Dybis concluding, based on interviews, that they likely came from household baking rather than automotive plants. Through vivid storytelling, she brings to life the personalities behind the pizza, including the chefs and families who guarded their recipes fiercely, viewing their craft as a means of survival in Detroit’s working-class communities.
A pivotal moment in the book is the role of Shawn Randazzo, a former Cloverleaf delivery driver who, in the late 2000s, began advocating for Detroit-style pizza’s recognition. His 2012 victory at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas, where he showcased his square pie, officially put “Detroit-style pizza” on the map, a term he is credited with popularizing. Dybis details how Randazzo’s efforts, alongside those of Detroit expats like the Jetts brothers of Jet’s Pizza, propelled the style beyond Michigan, with chains like Little Caesars adopting it and independent chefs across the U.S. and even internationally—in places like the United Arab Emirates—experimenting with variations. The book examines the three waves of Detroit-style pizza: the original innovators (Buddy’s, Cloverleaf, Loui’s), the regional chains that scaled it, and modern pizzaiolos who continue to refine it, sometimes sparking debates over authenticity, such as whether Wisconsin brick cheese or sauce placement is essential.
Dybis also weaves in the cultural significance of Detroit-style pizza, portraying it as a symbol of the city’s resilience and culinary pride, especially as Detroit sought to reclaim its identity amid economic challenges. She recounts events like Detroit-Style Pizza Day, which evolved from “Buddy’s Day” into a celebration of the style’s global reach, and includes anecdotes from fans, like one who recalls working at Loui’s alongside a young Eminem. While some readers note the book’s lack of recipes, its strength lies in its thorough research and storytelling, drawing from interviews with pizza makers, family members, and industry insiders. Published in 2023 by The History Press, Detroit Style Pizza: A Doughtown History is a love letter to a uniquely American dish, offering a rich tapestry of food, family, and Detroit’s enduring spirit, making it a must-read for pizza enthusiasts and those interested in the city’s cultural history.