Synopsis
I Regret Almost Everything: A Memoir by Keith McNally is a candid, introspective, and often poignant account of the life of the renowned restaurateur who shaped New York City’s downtown dining scene. The memoir traces McNally’s journey from his working-class childhood in London’s East End during the 1950s, a period marked by the lingering aftermath of World War II, to his serendipitous rise as the visionary behind iconic establishments like Balthazar, Pastis, Minetta Tavern, and the Odeon. With a tone that blends wit, vulnerability, and unfiltered honesty, McNally reflects on his triumphs and failures, both personal and professional, offering readers a vivid portrait of a man grappling with self-doubt, resilience, and the consequences of his choices. The narrative opens with a harrowing moment—McNally’s 2018 suicide attempt following a debilitating stroke in 2017 that impaired his speech and mobility—setting the stage for a story that is as much about survival as it is about success.
McNally’s early years are depicted with vivid detail, capturing the grit and struggle of his formative experiences. Born to a stevedore father, he grew up in a world of economic hardship and cultural limitation. Leaving school at 16 to pursue acting, he found himself under the mentorship of figures like theater director Jonathan Miller and playwright Alan Bennett, with whom he had a romantic relationship. These connections introduced him to a world of culture, design, and restaurants, sparking a lifelong obsession with aesthetics that would later define his eateries. His restless spirit led him to abandon acting and embark on the hippie trail, hitchhiking through India and Nepal at 19, though he admits to gaining little insight from the journey. Arriving in New York, McNally’s career in hospitality began humbly at One Fifth, a now-defunct restaurant where he progressed from oyster shucker to maître d’ and eventually general manager. It was here that he met influential figures like Lorne Michaels and Anna Wintour, the latter of whom inspired his vision for Parisian-style brasseries after a transformative trip to Paris.
The memoir delves deeply into McNally’s reinvention of New York’s restaurant landscape, chronicling the opening of the Odeon in Tribeca in 1980, which became a cultural touchstone, and subsequent ventures like Cafe Luxembourg, Nell’s, and Balthazar. These establishments, often located in then-gritty downtown neighborhoods, redefined the city’s dining ethos with their blend of sophistication and bohemian charm. McNally’s keen eye for design—chasing a particular mustard hue inspired by Bennett’s apartment—and his knack for creating vibrant social scenes made his restaurants magnets for celebrities, artists, and power brokers. Yet, he is equally forthright about his failures, such as the unsuccessful pizzeria Pulino’s, and professional challenges, including Mafia shakedowns and battles with food critics. His narrative is peppered with anecdotes of celebrity encounters, like the 2022 James Corden omelet incident at Balthazar, which fueled McNally’s Instagram notoriety, and controversial stances, such as his defenses of Woody Allen and Roman Polanski, reflecting his unapologetic candor.
On a personal level, McNally lays bare the instability of his two marriages, his complex family relationships, and the emotional toll of his relentless ambition. His stroke, a pivotal moment, forced him to confront his mortality and limitations, channeling his energy into writing as a means of expression when speech faltered. The memoir is not just a recounting of a glamorous career but a meditation on regret, resilience, and atonement. McNally’s self-awareness shines through as he acknowledges his flaws—his self-doubt, his prickly nature, and even his dislike for his own name and the term “restaurateur.” Critics and peers, from Martha Stewart to Padma Lakshmi, praise the book for its humor, vulnerability, and evocative prose, noting how McNally’s voice resonates in every sentence. Ultimately, I Regret Almost Everything is a testament to a life lived boldly, marked by dazzling highs, harrowing lows, and an enduring ability to create magic in the face of personal and professional chaos.